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Tongue and Groove for Doors

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School is well under way for my 2 boys (Xander -12 and Mitchell -10). The beginning of the school year plays havoc with the entire families schedules and that of course means my shop time. I have gotten minutes in my shop since it began about 2 weeks ago. Today, I was able to resume a bit of work on the doors.

I’ve decided to go with a tongue and groove joint between the stiles and rails. You may have read a few posts ago when I was cutting the groove for the door panel and the tongues of the rails. In beginning this process I thought the most obvious tool would be my skewed rabbit plane and yes this is probably the main tool for the job but the thing that surprised me was that I would need a few others. I also used a rabbit block plane, a chisel and a side rabbit plane.

Wall Hanging Tool Chest - tools for tongue.JPG

Working across the grain didn’t give the best cut but I was able to clean it up nicely with these other tools.

Wall Hanging Tool Chest - cutting tongue.JPG

The result was a nice tight fit that I’m very happy with.

Wall Hanging Tool Chest - tongue n groove.JPG

Now I have to cut the remaining rails and get the same fit. This job is much more satisfying than the groove.

New Old Tool

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I’ve been married to my wonderful wife for 28 years. There are many wonderful things she does but one of the things she does that I get most excited about is her hair dressing appointments. Over the last few months, her hair dresser (Henry Clark) has been cleaning out old things and when he runs into an old tool, he immediately thinks of Kathy because she has mentioned my hobby of woodworking.

My first item from Henry was an old brace. I’m not really a tool collector so my excitement isn’t really that it’s an old tool but more about it’s a brace I can use. It needed to be cleaned up a bit but was in great shape and works great.

Old Hand Brace.JPG

In the picture you can see my new brace which has plastic handles while the older brace has a nice patina and some nice wood handles (no splits or cracks).

Kathy had another appointment with Henry and when she came home she had a nice surprise for me.

New Old Tool - hand plane.JPG

Henry’s dad apparently did some boat building and Henry thinks this is a hand plane used during boat building. In looking at the tool, I’m a bit suspicious and think it’s actually a wooden circle plane that has been repurposed. The bottom of the plane has a nice flat base with a square blade. The bottom looks fresher than the rest of the plane which makes me suspicious about the repurposing. In reading about older wooden planes, I was encouraged by the fact the wedge (the small wooden wedge which “wedges” the plane blade to a particular depth) was in great shape and didn’t need to be re-made.

New Old Tool - hand plane length shape sole.JPG

In this shot across it’s width, you can see that the plane base may have had a radius to it but may have since been flattened.

New Old Tool - hand plane profile shape sole.JPG

Now here is a shot of the profile and you can see a similar story where it appears that this plane may have been radiused like a circle plane and later flattened.

Of course, I could be totally wrong because I am in no way a tool detective. At this point, it is now a functional but unusual rabbit plane.

Next is to clean up and sharpen the blade and flatten the base. I’m hopeful this will become a functional plane for my tool chest.

Groovin’

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I’ve been gone for a bit. My oldest son, Xander, just started at a new school and part of the first week is a 3 day sleepover camp which I volunteered as a chaperone. It was a lot of fun and all the kids had a blast (of course, I got bit by so many bugs that my legs look like I have the measles).

Now it’s time to get movin’ on the doors on my Wall Hanging Tool Chest.

I’ve already rough sized the rail and stiles for the door and glued up the panels. The next step is to place a groove in the rail and stiles.

Wall Hanging Tool Chest - Groove on rail and stiles.JPG

You can see that I’m using a groove plane (Lee Valley/Veritas). The groove is roughly centered on the 3/4″ board though it’s a smidge closer to the front face of each board.

Wall Hanging Tool Chest - groove depth.JPG

The depth of the groove is 3/8″ which is also the width.

Wall Hanging Tool Chest - rail and stiles ready for length.JPG

This was a lot more work than I thought it was going to be but now it’s done. Next step is to size the boards to final dimensions and make the matching tongues on the rails and the panels.

Rail and Stiles

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The panel glue up went well. Now it’s on to the Rails and Stiles for the door.

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As you can see, this is a very common door construction. Some details you can’t tell from that image include a groove on the interior of both the Stiles and the Rails. I have seen 2 common options for joining the rail to the stile. One way, the simplest, is to simply create a small tenon that matches the groove in the edge of the stile. Another way is to create a longer tenon which is matches a deeper mortise that is actually inside the groove on the stile. I haven’t decided which will be the way to go for me. The first is probably not as strong but if the door isn’t large or holding up items (common to a wall hanging tool chest), then strength isn’t the issue. I plan to have the door not holding any tools so the only strength needed is for the door to hold together while hanging. The size is 30″ H x 18″ W.

I’ve cut the Rail and Stiles from 1×3 pine stock. I’ve squared one of the edges so that I can dial in the precise lengths of each board.

Wall Hanging Tool Chest - Stiles and Rails Rough.JPG

After I dial in the precise lengths, I will create the grooves and decided on a shallow or deeper tenon on the Rails.

Basic Glue up

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A basic glue up is a skill every woodworker needs to master.

The first step is to get the rough material to the rough size. For hand tool users, this means hand crosscuts and hand ripping. For power tool users, this means table saw work.

The next step is to joint the edges to be joined. For power tool users, they will often need to do all the thicknessing work before jointing using a power planer followed by jointing with a jointer. For hand tool users, I’ve found that thicknessing can be done after the jointing (though note: you will have to flatten the board so you really aren’t avoiding any work).

Wall Hanging Tool Chest - door panel jointing.JPG

For me, jointing takes 3 different planes. Using hand tools, I’ve gone with the jointing method where you place the 2 boards to be joined together and when they are jointed, you open the two boards like a book and glue them together. The first plane (above), is a #5 Jack which is tuned for roughing. I have a scrub but have found that the wider base on the jack gives batter coverage on 2 boards being jointed together. The purpose is to quickly clean up the edges and get them flush. The second plane is a #7 Jointer which is tuned for a medium cut. The purpose for this plane is to straighten the length of the 2 boards. The last is a #4 Smoother. The main purpose of this plane is to create a small spring joint (making the middle of the board a smidge, technical term, lower than straight allowing lighter clamping pressure on the edges and the main clamping pressure in the middle).

I’ve also found that biscuits, dowels, splines and other edge jointing methods are not needed for most applications. In fact they complicate the glue up process and at least for me, ensure a less than great joint.

I apply glue to the 2 edges and rub them together and then clamp. I do make sure not to over tighten the clamps and make sure I alternate the sides where I apply the clamps.

Wall Hanging Tool Chest - Door panel glue up 2.JPG

These will be panels floating inside a mortise and tenon frame for the doors on my Wall Hanging Tool Chest.

Wall Hanging Tool Chest - door panel glue up 3.JPG

Now I have 2 panels ready for the next steps.

Now That’s Hung!

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When using hand tools, you’ll probably find that crosscutting is pretty simple. The main reason is that when you crosscut, you are making a relatively short cut. On the other hand, ripping is a manually intensive job. Unlike the crosscut, this cut is along the length of the board.

For instance, I need to make some cleats for the Wall Hanging Tool Chest. Cleats are simply boards that have been cut at 45 degrees which enable the boards to interlock when one is attached to a cabinet and the other to the wall.

Wall Hanging Tool Chest - cleat.JPG

This kind of rip cut is even harder because you are trying to maintain the 45 degree angle along the entire length. Let me tell you – that is hard! And I failed. When you fail, it’s not a total loss but it takes a lot of effort with hand planes to clean up the cut. I think I improve because I come up with different strategies each time or subtle improvements for strategies that are mostly working.

Wall Hanging Tool Chest - shelves.JPG

Making the shelves also requires ripping but this is a simpler job and for me, much more successful. Now only 4 more!

Wall Hanging Tool Chest - shelf jointing.JPG

Clean up of the cleat or the shelf is basically the same and is a matter of running a hand plane across the edge monitoring the progress with squares and straight edges.

Wall Hanging Tool Chest - No doors and empty.JPG

Now that it’s complete, you can see the finished core cabinet (still need to make doors). The bottom shelf is fixed and will be open and not covered by the door. The upper shelves are adjustable with standard shelf pins. It turned out quite nice (you can even see the v-groove detail in the back!).

Of course, what good is a cabinet if it doesn’t hold things.

Wall Hanging Tool Chest - no doors and full.JPG

You can see my collection of hand planes. I have one or two more that I’d like to have and there is a little bit of room for them. Next it’s on to the doors.

Wall Hanging Tool Chest – The Back

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Yesterday, I started on the back.

First step was to rough size the pieces for the back (it wasn’t that rough). I cut to length and ripped to width the 4 pieces I was going to use for the back, all with hand saws. I followed this with squaring and straightening the edges and ends that I just cut. I must be getting pretty good with the hand saws cause this step is getting shorter and shorter every time I do it.

I decided to again do a half lap joint between each board so I began on the dado on the sides. I used a skew plow plane which has a depth stop and and edge guide. This makes quick work of the dado. My first time with this tool had me pressing down and against the piece and I found that my pressure was actually moving the fences which are just pressure clamped. I learned from this that light pressure to guide the plane works great and you get fabulous results every time.

  Wall Hanging Tool Chest - Dado side.JPG

The next step was to cut the dado’s on the end which will fit into the dado’s for the top and bottom back rails where the back gets attached.

Wall Hanging Tool Chest - Dado bottom.JPG

For this cut, I needed to adjust the side fence for a wider cut. To fix the first board and adjust it, I used a rabbit plane. After a little fine tuning on the boards, they all fit well.

On the saw till, Iliked the v-groove in between the boards so I decided to do it again. I used a simple block plane to accomplish this.

I’ll finish the work tomorrow and show the results. Next step is the hanging cleats and the shelves.

Wall Hanging Tool Chest Glue Up

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Today I finished the rest of the joinery on the Wall Hanging Tool Chest. I needed to finish the pins for the upper and lower back braces. I needed to create the dado’s for the back in the upper/lower back braces

Then it was on to dry fit to make sure I’m satisfied with the fit.

Wall Hanging Tool Chest - Dry Fit 1.JPG

The fit was nice and snug (a few hand blows but no mallet blows needed) except for …

Wall Hanging Tool Chest - Dry Fit Oops.JPG

The upper back brace was a bit tight and when I was disassembling the pieces, something extra came away.

During glue up, I was able to glue the piece in place and get a nice tight fit.

Wall Hanging Tool Chest - Glue Up 1.JPG

Next I will begin working on the back and the hanging cleats.

In the beginning…

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As I finished my Saw Till (see previous post), I had one other major project before I get back to working on my 3 guitar builds.

I need to re-design and build anew a Wall Hanging Tool Chest. My main 2 issues with the existing plywood Tool Chest is 1) I have no room for growth and 2) there is no style in it (and hence no pride from me for the existing one).

To fix, somewhat, the first issue I have decided to store my hand planes laying down. To do this, the cabinet needs to be deeper. This will allow for more shelves in the same space though I’m actually widening and making taller the cabinet redesign.

For the second issue, I have several elements that I intend. First, I am using solid wood. It’s just pine (from the borg) but it’s still solid wood. I will continue to dovetails the frame. I also will try some different solutions to hanging chisels, marking, measuring tools on the inside and outside of the cabinet (I’d like to eliminate the need for hanging anything on the outside but not sure how).

Wall Hanging Tool Chest - in the beginning.JPG

You can see on the right side a rough sketch of the cabinet. I will have a lower shelf for frequently accessed items such as block/apron planes. The upper section will have doors.

On the left, you can see the top, bottom, and back 2 rails with their tails cut. I’ve started on the pins and am pleased so far as to the fit.

Saw Till – Wrap Up

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Today was a very busy day.

First I decided to tackle the back. I rough cut the 3 pieces that make up the back and then properly sized them with hand planes. I decided to go with half lap boards and ultimately decided that a v-groove at the half lap would look the best. This took most of my day.

Next, I needed to cut out the curve from the top to the front rail. I cheated a bit and used a jig saw instead of cutting it by hand. I used a spokeshave to fine tune the look and am quite pleased.

Saw Till - Finished.JPG

I still have a small bit of work in cutting out saw blade supports (an upper and lower) with saw kerfs about 1-inch apart. Here is a shot with saws in it so you can get a feel for it all finished.

Saw Till - with saws.JPG

I’m not sure if the japanese saws will go in this saw till but I’ll play with them as I put the kerf rails in. I think the cubby will house my spokeshaves. I may create a small dowel based hanging area above the switch and next to this saw till for the japanese saws. I don’t have many but they are useful in certain occasions.

Just to show you how much work I did, I thought I would capture the image of all my shavings (they looked like even more when they were all over the work bench and on the floor around the work bench).

Saw Till - shavings.JPG

Saw Till – Main Glue Up

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Great progress today.

First I decided to tackle the dado’s for the shelf. These would be my first hand cut dado’s so I was looking forward to them. First, I marked the edges of the dado using the shelf board. I cut these marks deep by taking many passes with my marking knife. I then made them even deeper by using my chisel and then taking a relief paring to allow for a saw cut. I then took a crosscut carcass saw and cut the edges to the desired depth. Now it was time for the router plane. The material came out easily. Last step was to use various tools for cleaning up the dado.

Saw Till - hand cut dado.JPG

The dado turned out nice and the fit for the shelf board was nice and tight.

Saw Till - Dado dry fit.JPG

Danger Will Robinson! Danger Will Robinson!

And here was a series of errors that were fortunately non-catasrophic.

I first attempted to cut the rabbits in the back rails (top and bottom). Of course, I wasn’t being slow and methodical and wound up cutting them on the wrong side. It wasn’t catastrophic because at least the error was on the back. I did this to both the top and bottom. Ooops!

My next was glue up. I should have stepped back and taken a break because for some reason I was in a rush. Rushing always means mistakes for me. I was glueing up all the pieces starting with the top and bottom. I followed with the front rail and then I realized the rabbits were on the wrong side and had to fix these. I then realized I hadn’t finished sizing the shelf. It was still too deep. I fixed all these and got it glued up.

Saw Till - Main glue up.JPG

I haven’t decided whether it was an error not cutting the curves in the sides before the glue up or not. It probably was but that decision will have to wait till tomorrow.

That leaves only 2 steps left. Cutting the curve and making and installing the back.

There are also a couple of small pieces to do. I need to make 2 spanning pieces with saw curfs cut into them for holding the saws. I need to make the cleats for hanging the unit. I’ll need to ease edges.

Saw Till – Carcass

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I’m making some progress on my saw till. In my last post, I told you all that I had finished the tails for the dovetail joinery that I’m building the saw till with. For this post, I have finished all the pins for the main carcass.

Saw Till - Carcus.JPG

Above, you can see the carcass dry assembled. I still need to mark and cut out the pins for the top and bottom back rails and the pins for the front rail/handle rail. I also need to cut a dado for the shelf. I also need to cut the matching curves in the side so that it’s not a tedious square box. The curve is just a basic “S”.

I still have 1 decision to make and that is the back. I am currently thinking about putting some small rabbits in the top and bottom back rail to hold back panel pieces. For this I would either need to resaw 3/4 pieces to 1/4 or 3/8 … OR … I could take the 3/4 pieces and put matching rabbits in them. I’ll need to decide in the next day or so.

UPDATE: in cutting out the pins for the carcass, I realized I forgot to rough out the front rail and it’s tails. I have since done that and cut all the remaining pins. I did have some split out that I had to glue back in. It should look fine in the end.

Saw Till using dovetails

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With my shop reorganization (see previous post), I need 2 storage solutions done. First is a saw till for holding full size saw’s for ripping and crosscutting, joinery saws including dovetail, tenon, and such, and a few japanese saws.

My saw till is based on several sources but probably the most dominant source if from Shannon Rogers’ Hand Tool School.

On the top and bottom pieces, I have put the tails (dovetail joinery) on the sides so that the top and bottom will resist pulling out. On the back, I have a top and bottom rail which will have the tails so that they enable the sides to resist pulling out. There will be a front rail which also has the tails. The front rail is where the handles of the saws sit.

On the top and bottom rails, i will put a rabbit to accept the back pieces.

The width is about 18 inches which should enable me to fit about 15 saws or so.

Saw Till - Dovetails.JPG

Above you see one of the back rails with the tails. As you can see, I’m not going for style with very thin pins. Also, I’m just using big box cheap lumber (pine in this case).

Saw Till - Dovetails (tails all done).JPG

These are all the pieces that have tails. Now it’s on to the pins.

Recreate a Shop

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A few weeks ago, I ordered Christopher Schwarz’s book, The Anarchist’s Tool Chest. Once I got it, I found it a quick read. It was clear and concise and more importantly inspirational. I found Chris’s discussion of his woodworking journey especially touching. Some of it even paralleled my own journey though mine wasn’t often reported on the pages of a woodworking magazine.

I think the important point of Chris’s book was to be inspired by the desire to create. My path is different. I’m ok with getting rid of different power tools while retaining others. I prefer wall hanging tool chests to floor standing chests. I love tradition but I understand my needs and desire so I may find other traditions to move me.

It’s not much of a review but there are many glowing reviews out there already. Go read the book and be inspired by Chris’s story in your own way.

I’ve been holding on to a few power tools that I know I could live without. My small shop really needs me to be disciplined enough not to be a tool collector so I decided it was time to get rid of a few. I may decide to replace the machine thickness planer but I will attempt to do this activity by hand for a while before making the choice. I’m keeping my bandsaw and my router table and my selection of Festool tools (especially the circular saw and track system) for some wood prep.

I’m making my bench the center point of the shop. I hope to build or buy a better bench in the future but this will tide me over for a bit. I’m inspired by Chris’s story about placing his workbench in front of his only window. I actually have 2 windows though they are both in doors. I decided to block one door with my bench and use it for some natural light on my bench. Brilliant though I’d like to know why I didn’t think of it sooner.

On the left side of the door/window, I am building a saw til which is roughly inspired by Shannon Rogers Hand Tool School’s Season 1 Saw Til Project. I will post more about the saw til in the near future.

On the right side of the door/window, I have a quickly built (read plywood) hanging tool chest. I am going to rebuild this based on many pieces found on the internet though it will not be elaborate and instead will be designed to fit into the space I have.

I am putting my guitar projects aside for a few weeks to accomplish these 2 builds. I’ll post on both.

Here are some shots of the reorganization.

Location for saw til.JPG

You can see my bench in front of the door and the bare location which will hold the saw til when I’m finished. My saw till will likely be oversized but I’m still figuring out which saws I want and need so it’s the one area I may expand my tools.

Old wall hanging tool chest.JPG

Again, see the bench and above it is the existing hanging tool chest. You can also see my saw benches which now have plenty of room to be used. My goal with rebuilding the tool chest is to make the internal space more optimized so that I can have all my planes, spokeshaves, cutting and marking, measuring, and such in it. I’d like to keep the outer doors clean too even though it does provide simple access to some tools.

Right Side of Door.JPG Left Side of Door.JPG

Above you can see what’s on either side of the door that will stay a functional door. These are the 2 power tools I plan to keep at this point. Next to the router is a jig for routing out neck attachment to guitar bodies. This is only it’s temporary home. It’s spot could be where I put a new power thickness planer if I choose to add it back to my shop. I’ve found that I beginning to get the hang of flattening but thicknessing can still be challenge.

Sharpening station.JPG Tool box.JPG

You can see my sharpening station and all the storage I have in my shop. Sharpening is something I may change up after reading more (from Chris’s book and other sources) about oil stones. It sounds like oil stone maintenance is a simpler task. I will still keep the Tormek for grinding but most sharpening (I’ve found) is stone work and not grinding.

I find it actually fun to go into the shop again. That is what inspiration should do. Thanks Chris!

Smurfing Good Woodworker

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The other day, Xander (12) and Mitchell (10) and I were out doing a few errands. I needed to feed them and they defaulted to McD’s after a very lack luster discussion. I don’t think they were too hungry.

The boys are well beyond happy meals and the toys but once in a while, the size/amount of the food is what they want and so that’s what we get. I thought it was funny when I saw the toy was this:

Smurf woodworker.JPG